Monday, April 5, 2010

Fence Rows


We got 1000 feet of fencerow cleared last week. Do you like fencerows?

The ones in southern Ohio aren't kept up like the beautiful hedgerows we saw in New Zealand. Each land owner hires a contractor to trim his hedges or does it himself.

Here they just grow out of hand with scrub trees and brush and block the sun from the crop. They often stop drainage patterns too so the field is wet and you can't plant ontime and that throws the whole schedule off for the year.

We have plenty of habitat for wildlife so it isn't like clearing jungles or rain forests or anything like that. But it costs money to repair what got out of hand.

A few farmers do it here but not many. It is expensive and time consuming.

This fence changed the whole appearance and usefulness of the land and gives a beautiful view of the land below.

Do you like fencerows with scrub in it? The fences are pretty much gone here because the livestock are gone.

I think it was a great improvement to this farm.

Ed Winkle

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Happy Easter!

Lent is almost over and time for a new leaf.

I remember the huge train wreck in Sardinia when I was young, probably the late fifties or 60's. two 100 car freight trains collided at 60 MPH. It was the most amazing sound you ever heard, we lived a mile or two away.

I will never forget our tornado on Good Friday a years ago, no wonder I want to forget that. I would post links and pictures but don't time right now

The train wreck killed everyone on board. No one died in the tornado but it was too close for comfort.

You hate to remember a special day for the world with tragedy but it happens.

Have a safe and blessed day,

Ed Winkle

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Windy!

Boy is it windy today! I see where trees are down and lots of flooding in nearby states.

It was scary, barely saved the barn doors again, no big damage just some screws pulled out but items scattered all over the yards and fields.

No day for an Easter Egg Hunt, for sure!

Wind is very frightening to some people. Here is a good piece on this fear or medical phobia:

"Fear of wind, thunder and lightning :

The levels of anxiety in individuals are so different that it is not possible to offer a single series of exposure steps for all cases. Some wind and storm phobics just experience a good deal of anxiety when high winds threaten, while others spend most of the day listening to weather forecasts, phoning the meteorological offices, or organising companions to look after them when bad weather threatens. However, these suggestions would be worth considering for someone with a serious wind phobia:

Cut down on the number of calls to Met. Offices; or on reading or listening to weather forecasts
Listen to sound effects records of wind and storms, including thunder
Watch videos of storms
If you hide, try to reduce the amount of protection you use, for example using a smaller blanket, or leaving the cupboard door open a crack
If you seek companions, try to have them simply available at the end of an open phone line, rather than actually in the house. (If you fear ‘wires’ and ‘electricity’ this may be difficult, in which case it should not be an early step.)
Work up to not hiding, but with a companion present
Then to not hiding, with no companion there
Then to observing high winds or lightning etc. with a companion
Then to doing so alone.

Some storms and wind would put this fear in anyone!

Ed Winkle

Friday, April 2, 2010

A Farmer Asked About Seed Treatments

A farmer emailed me, asking what seed treatments I am using this year.

For me, seed treatments always paid their cost. It is difficult to recommend one over another.

I told him chemical on the seed gives you about 21 days protection, the fungi in T-22 and the rhizobia inoculants give you season long control.

There are so many products available I can where one would ask the question.

It's all personal choice and a good investment for protecting seeds.

There is lots of information on the Internet but some of it dated.

This is where a good dealer or speed specialist can be of good help.

Have a good day and protect your valuable seed!

Ed

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Our Lawn Needs Mowed

Our lawn needs mowed.

I have become such a stickler about soil compaction I really don't want to do it. Our soil is saturated with water.. Just my footprint leaves a mark.

This lawn is doing so well I don't want to damage it. Maybe I am lazy. The worst thing once you mow it in the spring, it seems like you never quit mowing.

I saw lawnmowers out plowing up soil today and though I love to smell and see and fresh cut grass, it is just too wet to mow. You know how wet it is when the tires turn color or you throw up water. I have done it more than once but try not to. Maybe I am just lazy.

I want a good lawn that doesn't cost more to maintain than I am willing to spend on it.

Here is a good piece of information from Michigan State:

Michigan State University Turfgrass Scienceturf.msu.edu

Home Lawns


Golf Courses


Athletic Fields


Sod Production

Proper mowing is the most basic turfgrass maintenance practice.Continual scalping (below) reduces turf density and provides opportunities for weeds. Following the one-third rule (above) encourages the maximum turf density.Sub-optimum mowing heights will lead to more crabgrass pressure.

Mowing Lawn Turf

Mowing is the most basic practice for maintaining lawn turf. Mowing performed at the correct height and frequency is essential to the health and density of the stand. Removing leaf tips induces plants to form new sprouts, increasing stand density. Mowing can affect water quality, also. A healthy stand can withstand more pest pressure and needs fewer pest control inputs. The denser turf cover also helps prevent soil erosion, which is an important pollution problem for the waters in the Great Lakes basin.

Height of Cut
Turfgrasses are well adapted to frequent mowing, but mowing too short will reduce the vigor of the plants by reducing their ability to manufacture food. Also, there is a direct relationship between cutting height and the amount of roots a grass plant can maintain. Lowering the mowing height reduces the root system. This restricts the ability of the plant to absorb water and nutrients. In recent years, recommendations for mowing height have steadily increased for home lawns. Earlier recommendations for a cutting height of 1.5 inches were common. Current standards suggest between 2 and 3.75 inches. Higher cut lawn grasses are more stress tolerant. This is especially important during the summer heat period. Taller grass plants with higher density have a profound shading effect on the soil surface, which reduces germination of weed seeds, particularly crabgrass. This is an excellent way to reduce herbicide use, especially where the lawn is properly fertilized and watered to maintain vigor.

Mowing Frequency
A general rule of thumb is not to remove more than one-third of the total leaf surface when mowing your lawn. This may require mowing every four to five days during rapid growth in the spring. The table below describes the amount of growth allowed between mowings at specific cutting heights. As the table indicates, higher cutting heights allow more time between mowing cycles. This is desirable during periods of rapid growth. Removing more than one-third of total leaf surface can severely injure the grass plant by decreasing its ability to support its underground portions.
To cut one-third of the leaves
Height of cut
Mow when turf reaches
Growth between mowings
1.0”
1.50”
0.50”
2.0”
3.00”
1.00”
2.5”
3.75”
1.25”
3.0”
4.50”
1.50”
3.5”
5.25”
1.75”
Dealing With Clippings
Current Michigan law restricts many residents from dumping yard wastes such as grass clippings and leaves into landfills, so it is best to manage them on your site. Return clippings to the lawn whenever possible. When the lawn is mowed so that less than one-third of the total leaf surface is removed, grass clippings can easily be returned to the lawn. Excessive accumulation of clippings from infrequent mowing may smother the turf and should be removed. A common misconception is that clippings left on the lawn will promote thatch buildup. This is not true. Clippings do not make significant contributions to thatch and should be returned to the lawn whenever possible. These leaves contain mostly water and break down rapidly, releasing nutrients back into the system. Returning grass clippings means that nitrogen applications can be reduced by as much as 1 pound per 1,000 square feet per year. To accommodate this practice, mulching mowers are now available that chop the clippings into small pieces and distribute them back to the turf surface.

If clippings are removed, they can be used in compost piles or as mulch. Backyard compost stations are becoming increasingly popular, and grass clippings are a welcome addition. An important concept for composting is to create the correct carbon to nitrogen balance (“browns” to “greens”) in the pile. Many experts suggest an ideal ratio of 30:1 carbon to nitrogen for best compost results. Grass clippings are relatively high in nitrogen, with an approximate 13:1 ratio for green clippings. Combining or layering grass clippings with tree leaves, straw, soil or other materials considered to have a high carbon content will be effective.

Many gardeners use grass clippings as a mulch in vegetable or ornamental gardens. This is an excellent use for this material, but caution is required if weed control products have been applied recently. In tests conducted at MSU, researchers applied several weed control products to lawn turf, then mowed at two and 14 days after application and used the clippings as mulch around a variety of annual flowers and vegetable plants. Some of the weed control products injured the plants when clippings were used as mulch up to 14 days after application. Insect or disease control products did not cause any noticeable injury. The conclusion: allow at least two weeks after applying weed control products before using clippings as mulch. These clippings can be returned to the lawn or directed toward the compost pile. The weed control products will degrade quickly during the composting process.

Mowing Tree Leaves
Mowing tree leaves in the autumn and returning them to the turf system is an outstanding alternative to raking and bagging (the same landfill constraints also apply to tree leaves). MSU studies have evaluated the effects of mowing tree leaves into lawns. In these studies, up to 6 inches of various types of tree leaves were mowed into lawns. No adverse effects were detected on the lawns. Reports from professional turf managers who have been practicing this technique on golf courses and commercial turf have been positive. Homeowners interested in an alternative to raking leaves might want to try mowing them. A couple of passes with the mower will break the leaves down into small pieces. The leaf residue will be evident after mowing, but it will sift into the turf within a few weeks and will be unnoticeable in the spring. You can even rake leaves that accumulate in planting beds, fence lines or other areas out into the lawn and mow them. For best results, raise your mowing height to better accommodate the tree leaves, and mow when the leaves are dry.

Mowing Equipment
The key to a quality cut with any style mower is to use a sharp, well adjusted mower. Dull, poorly adjusted equipment tears rather than cuts the grass, leaving a ready site for disease invasion and giving the lawn a frayed, brownish look. An easy way to accomplish this task is to purchase an extra mower blade for your machine so you can always keep a sharp blade on hand. The frequency of changing the blade is up to you. Many professional turf managers change blades daily, but once a month would be a good start. For best results, mow when the turf is dry; this will also eliminate clumping. Varying the mowing direction from time to time can reduce wear patterns. Recent industry advances in mulching mowers have made them increasingly popular. They differ from the side discharge and reel mowers by recirculating the grass within the mowing chamber to produce smaller pieces.

© Copyright 2004-2009 Michigan State UniversityDepartment of Crop and Soil Sciences.

The mower blades are important. With 3 acres to mow I need to replace them every other year.

I need to go and cut the grass!

Ed Winkle

It is hard for me to mow so high when others mow so low. Mowing low looks good for a few days. You need the heighth to catch the sunlight to build the root system.

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

The Hundred Dollar Gilt

In 1990 my children were 13, 10 and 8 years old. I really wanted one of them to win the county fair market hog championship.



So I bought a beautiful female pig from Art Meranda near Georgetown. She was half Hampshire and half Duroc, some call a Karate cross pig, the knockout kick of crossbred pigs.



The oldest boy got to show her because we knew he would go to college first. A few extra dollars never hurts in college.

I wish he could write this blog from his perspective. We worked so hard but we had so much fun with six pigs. You could tag in in two pigs for each child. There wasn't a bad pig in the bunch and they all placed.

Tom Farrer, the swine judge from Indiana, fell in love with that pig from the first time she walked out the gate. That is very important in swine judging and in life, that first impression.

When we unloaded her from the trailer, one of our competitors saw her and said where in the hell did you find that pig? Brown County, I answered.

Brown County is an Appalachian County that some people in Clinton County wanted no part of. Yet a part of those counties border each other.

The hundred dollar gilt was judged Reserve Champion of 900 pigs in the show. That show was so big and so popular that one local grocer bid $2700 for her. I put that check in a capital investment that grew to $27,000 by the time the money was used for college.

Never be afraid of spending a hundred dollars on a pig or anything you need want to invest in. Groceries are one thing but hundred dollar pigs are another.

That brings up a new blog, what it costs to raise a pig.

I hope I get a chance to write it, it is almost time to plant corn.

Ed Winkle

Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Planting A Profit

Choosing what to plant this year is difficult. You would think it would just be automatic but that isn't so.


Corn has always been king in our country. Native Americans taught us that.


Then the world needed more protein and soy was introduced to our country from Asia. This year the US harvested as many acres of soy in this country as we did corn. I have friends who don't own a corn head or a grain bin. South America has grown to our equal in raising soy.


Wheat was king in Europe, where many of our farm people came from. It fit their growing conditions.




Those settlers brought wheat and barley and rye and spelt to our region. Those were all grown in their homeland.




One of the neatest pictures I ever seen was one of Grandpa George driving an International 8-16, pulling a McCormick wheat binder. The picture was taken in the summer of 1920. Aunt Florence is on the back running the tie that holds the shock together and dad is about 5 years old, smiling, as usual beside grandpa.



In those years our family planted in a five year rotation. Corn, wheat overseeded with clover and cut as hay for three years.

I think I will just stick to my crop rotation of corn, soybeans and wheat. Every farmer I talk to is concerned about our market situation and what to plant.

Farmers feed the world but we sure can't control it.

Ed